CURT class 1 trailer hitches are the lightest-duty hitches of our rear mount receiver lineup. They are engineered for reliability, welded together with quality American steel and blasted clean for a smooth finish. Tested to meet the strict demands of the industry, this CURT class 1 hitch has a capacity to tow up to 2,000 lbs. of gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. of tongue weight. This means it can handle a variety of small trailers such as single-axle utility trailers, canoe and kayak trailers, dirt bike trailers and more. It can also accept a hitch-mounted cargo carrier or bike rack, making it a very useful addition to cars with limited cargo space (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc).
Class 1 hitches feature a 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" receiver tube opening and are typically mounted on compact cars, full-size cars and some smaller crossover SUVs, minivans and compact SUVs. This particular hitch is designed to be a custom-fit trailer hitch for certain years of the Lexus ES350 sedan or Lexus ES300h (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). It features a round tube frame and comes with a hitch pin and clip and all necessary installation hardware.
Each CURT class 1 hitch is co-cured with a liquid Bonderite coating and a high-gloss black powder coat finish that provide a lasting defense against rust, wear and harmful UV rays. Like all CURT receiver hitches, this class 1 hitch is made right here in the USA and is backed by a one-year finish warranty and a limited lifetime warranty.
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Just installed this hitch on a 2017 Lexus ES 300h Hybrid and it looks great. I will use it with a receiver mounted bicycle rack. This the 4th Curt hitch I've installed on my own vehicles and probably the most tedious. Without success in borrowing a pair of car ramps from friends, I bought a pair on sale for $30 at Harbor Freight. I don't think I could have done it on this low clearance vehicle without the ramps or a lift. If you have access to a mechanic's adjustable stool, it makes a great substitute lift for both the receiver installation and re-installing the muffler. I followed the enclosed excellent instructions; guessing is not required on anything. However, I made a few minor mods that I think improved the process. 1. Remove the muffler. There are only 2, 14mm bolts in addition to the 4 rubber hangers. Easy off and easy on. You'll have much easier access for the rest of the process without it hanging there in your way. 2. They recommend replacing the heat shield UNDER the hitch attachment. Instead I preferred to cutout a small semi-circle of the heat shield to allow access to the nut on the hitch bolt and reinstall it directly where it was. Sorry forgot to take a pic of this. 3. They recommend using a die grinder to enlarge a whole in the "frame" structure. I have a die grinder and it worked well, but a rat-tailed file would work fine with a bit more elbow grease. There is no need to enlarge the circle as a circle - I enlarged it more in the shape of a triangle, test fitting, grinding, testing, etc. until the bolt head goes through the hole. 3. Replacing that large black plastic shield under the spare tire well was the most difficult. After struggling for some time to get the rear edge in the required position to replace the 5 screws (the cross bar on the hitch interferes with access), I first removed the white center clip. Then I was able to manipulate the other 4 screw clips into position. I could have just left out that center clip with no harm done, but after a bit of a struggle I was able to get it reattached to the black shield so that all 5 screws were back in their original locations.